The Legality of Fast Fashion

By: Janie Xu

Edited By: micah sandy and connor tooman

From SHEIN to Nike, fast fashion dominates the clothing industry and many of our wallets. While consumers enjoy wearing the trendiest apparel for affordable prices, this industry’s rising popularity has dark consequences. Fast fashion is a manufacturing method that mass produces catwalk-inspired clothing at a low cost, bolstered by the goal to meet consumer demand as quickly as possible. Fast fashion puts workers in hazardous working conditions while perpetuating abuse and failing to provide minimum wage. The fast fashion industry employs approximately 75 million factory workers worldwide–less than 2% of these employees make a living wage. Many garment workers work 16 hours a day and child labor is prevalent. [1] The textile industry is also resource-intensive, responsible for a growing carbon footprint that accounts for up to 10% of global carbon emissions. [2]

To sustain mass production and meet consumer demand, fashion companies take advantage of legal loopholes, such as offshore outsourcing, in developing countries. As a result, fast fashion workers have limited rights and work under unsafe conditions for unsurvivable wages. If the United States  raises wages and implements international and domestic labor standards, other countries may follow suit and workers can have improved working conditions  in addition to a reduced environmental impact.

Until the mid-1950s, the fashion industry carefully curated styles for four seasons a year. Now, fashion giants such as H&M create “52 micro-seasons” a year — one new collection a week. [3] Online retailers also take part in ultra-fast fashion, with Fashion Nova releasing 600 to 900 new styles every week. [4] This overproduction leads to massive amounts of waste and garment employees working overtime. In order to cut supply chain costs and increase the level of production, companies in developed countries practice offshore outsourcing. They move their production to developing countries such as Bangladesh, Cambodia, China, India, Indonesia, and Vietnam, where there are typically cheaper labor costs and laxer regulations. This flexibility in production rules allows more room for severe human rights violations to occur. For example, fast fashion production employs the use of 8,000 synthetic chemicals, contributing to long-term health consequences for workers. Furthermore, supervisors’ negligence led to the 2013 Rana Plaza factory disaster in Bangladesh, where 1,134 people died and 2,500 were injured when a building that housed five garment factories collapsed. [5] This incident sparked outrage among the fashion industry, politicians, and advocacy groups; however, few changes were implemented in factory safety laws. 

There are no United States federal laws that regulate offshore outsourcing. Instead, contract law is governed by the state. While several bills proposing regulation of offshore outsourcing have been introduced at the Senate, they died at the committee level. [6] However, there is a solution that addresses labor rights and the climate crisis: raising wages. The Council of Europe and the United Nations recognize the right to a living wage in the Universal Declaration of Human Rights, but this standard is not respected in global production supply chains. [7] In order to promote tangible change, companies must commit to fairer purchasing practices. If brands are required to commit to paying more for orders, factories can properly cover the costs of production, including labor. [8] Most companies can afford to pay employees fair wages without risking financial losses. However, they choose not to due to the lack of a legal requirement. As a developed country with a fashion industry that is valued at $369.69 billion, the United States has a responsibility to set ethical standards and definitive practices. The United States must implement a federal labor law that mandates companies provide standard wages and working conditions for offshore employees, prioritizing quality and time-intensive manufacturing over quantity and rapid production. The United States should also encourage other developed countries to enforce these laws, which would ultimately decrease environmental pollution and increase quality of life for employees. 

Styles reflect artistic expression and personal choices. Fast fashion has increased the variety of options astronomically, but the consequences of fast fashion are undeniable. As consumers, our ethical and legal morals are at stake when we consider the deadly implications of fast fashion. It is only when the government takes action in enacting law that companies can finally put the brakes on fast fashion and pave a more sustainable path.

NOTES:

Emma Ross, “Fast Fashion Getting Faster: A Look at the Unethical Labor Practices Sustaining a Growing Industry,” International Law and Policy Brief, October 28, 2021. https://studentbriefs.law.gwu.edu/ilpb/2021/10/28/fast-fashion-getting-faster-a-look-at-the-unethical-labor-practices-sustaining-a-growing-industry/

  1. Rachael Dottle and Jackie Gu, “The Real Environmental Impact of the Fashion Industry,” Bloomberg.com, Bloomberg, February 23, 2022. https://www.bloomberg.com/graphics/2022-fashion-industry-environmental-impact/#:~:text=Today%2C%20in%20fact%2C%20fashion%20accounts,plastic%20produced%20globally%20each%20year.

  2. Audrey Stanton, “What Does Fast Fashion Mean, Anyway?” The Good Trade, The Good Trade, November 3, 2022. https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/what-is-fast-fashion.

  3. Terry Nguyen, “Fast Fashion, Explained,” Vox, Vox, February 3, 2020, https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2020/2/3/21080364/fast-fashion-h-and-m-zara. 

  4. Ross, “Fast Fashion Getting Faster: A Look at the Unethical Labor Practices Sustaining a Growing Industry.” 

  5. Leanes Lowrie, “Laws on Outsourcing Companies,” Small Business - Chron, Chron.com, November 21, 2017. https://smallbusiness.chron.com/laws-outsourcing-companies-75951.html.

  6. “Poverty Wages,” Clean Clothes Campaign, Clean Clothes Campaign, June 23, 2020, https://cleanclothes.org/poverty-wages. 

“Poverty Wages,” Clean Clothes Campaign.

BIBLIOGRAPHY:

Dottle, Rachael, and Jackie Gu. “The Real Environmental Impact of the Fashion Industry.” Bloomberg.com. Bloomberg, February 23, 2022. https://www.bloomberg.com/graphics/2022-fashion-industry-environmentalimpact/#:~:text=Today%2C%20in%20fact%2C%20fashion%20accounts,plastic% 20produced%20globally%20each%20year. 

Lowrie, Leanes. “Laws on Outsourcing Companies.” Small Business - Chron.com. Chron.com, November 21, 2017. https://smallbusiness.chron.com/laws-outsourcing-companies-75951.html.

Nguyen, Terry. “Fast Fashion, Explained.” Vox. Vox, February 3, 2020. https://www.vox.com/the-goods/2020/2/3/21080364/fast-fashion-h-and-m-zara

“Poverty Wages.” Clean Clothes Campaign, June 23, 2020. https://cleanclothes.org/poverty-wages. 

Ross, Emma. “Fast Fashion Getting Faster: A Look at the Unethical Labor Practices Sustaining a Growing Industry.” International Law and Policy Brief. October 28, 2021.  https://studentbriefs.law.gwu.edu/ilpb/2021/10/28/fast-fashion-getting-faster-alook-at-the-unethical-labor-practices-sustaining-a-growing-industry/. 

Stanton, Audrey. “What Does Fast Fashion Mean, Anyway?” The Good Trade. The Good Trade, November 3, 2022. https://www.thegoodtrade.com/features/what-is-fast-fashion.

The Structure of American Civil Courts and Its Consequences for Individual Litigants

By: Sam Bull

Edited By: Amy kim and emily yang

In the American legal system, there exists the concept of a criminal justice funnel, which describes the pattern of crimes being “lost” after every step in the criminal justice system due to police and court discretion, leading to a much smaller number of crimes punished than committed. What gains less attention but holds equal importance is the similarly funneled structure of the civil court system, in which many civil wrongs sustained by ordinary citizens are dropped or dismantled at each step in the process leading up to trial (as well as once in trial for the cases that do make it). This civil justice funnel operates through a variety of systemic mechanisms, contributing to an extremely uneven playing field for “one-shotters” (e.g. individuals) with limited time, money, resources, or experience, while favoring the “repeat players” (e.g. corporations) in the civil justice system. The civil justice funnel limits everyday Americans on two fronts—both in access to courts and the chances of winning in cases that do make it to court—providing an advantage for those in positions of power and privilege and creating a source of significant institutional  inequality in the American legal system.

The civil justice funnel severely limits the number of cases that can actually make it to court: cases of discrimination and personal injury that are brought to civil court make up a small fraction of those injustices that occur. Personal injury suits, for example, are filed in just two to four percent of potential cases. [1] A significant factor to these low numbers is the multi-tiered structure for bringing forth a case against wrongdoing. An individual who has been wronged must first be aware of such and translate their experiences into a specific injury—this is called naming. The next step, blaming, requires having the understanding and means to attribute the wrongdoing to a specific cause or entity, thus turning the injury into a grievance. Finally, the individual must undertake claiming, or going to the defendant to right the wrong (i.e., filing a suit and going to court). [2] Since these small players often lack legal consciousness and funds for legal counsel — funds that their opponents in court likely possess as repeat players — it is likely that they lack a strong grasp on what makes a good case to be able to make it very far down the civil justice funnel.

 The other key reasons for the low percentage can most clearly be illustrated by America’s history of tort reform. During the rights revolution of the 1960s and 70s, the civil justice funnel widened for individual plaintiffs through legislation like the Civil Rights Attorneys Fees Award Act of 1976, [3] which guaranteed reasonable attorney’s fees for victorious plaintiffs, and Warren Supreme Court rulings like Monroe v. Pape (1961), which introduced a damages remedy for unauthorized or unconstitutional official actions. [4] However, beginning in the 1970s, organizations, interest groups, and corporations fought back, such as through the creation of the American Tort Reform Association in 1986, which led to mass publicity campaigns aimed at convincing Americans to support restrictions on the ability to sue in civil court by emphasizing widely shared values like fairness, truth, and efficiency. [5] Then, too, came Supreme Court decisions limiting individuals’ ability to access the civil justice system. In 1989, for example, in Will v. Michigan Department of State Police, [6] the Rehnquist Court held that states, state agencies, and state officials acting in their official capacities were not “persons” for purposes of 42 U.S.C. Section 1983, [7] thereby making it much more difficult to bring suit against a state actor for a civil rights violation. In Buckhannon Board and Care Home v. W. Va. Dept. of Health and Services (2001), [8]  the Court walked back the ground gained by the Civil Rights Attorneys Fees Award Act, making it far riskier and more expensive to take a case to civil court. [9] The attack on the rights revolution continues into the 21st century; legislative efforts in more recent years, such as the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act (1995) [10] and the Class Action Fairness Act (2005), [11] have further limited court access. [12] 

For the small percentage of individuals whose cases actually make it to the civil courts, another host of issues awaits—and here is where the unbalanced relationship between one-shotters and repeat players proves most significant. One-shotters are litigants, usually individuals, who rarely go to court, while repeat players are those, usually corporations, organizations, or interest groups, that have much more experience with litigation as well as much deeper pockets. [13] For many of these repeat players, conducting litigation is a routine and required part of business, meaning that entire branches of an organization (and their resources) are dedicated to hiring lawyers, forming general outlines for types of legal arguments and offering settlement terms to litigants. These repeat players often have more than just the specific case in mind: they also have both the incentive and capacity to achieve favorable rules that apply to disputes in the future. Thus, not only do they have the money, but these entities are also often incentivized to be in court, for a court’s decision in one case can shape decisions in future cases. Over time, enough of these civil court decisions strung together will shape the relevant rule of law. [14] The motivation of these repeat players to shape future policy around their interests combined with the resources at their disposal to pay for top-tier legal counsel is so powerful that individual litigants, who are often  poor and likely to only have attained a high school education, [15] rarely have a realistic shot at winning their case. 

The civil justice funnel (and the court decisions and judicial retrenchment legislation that have formed it) has often been overlooked by mainstream political science and the media, yet it has detrimental consequences on the American civil legal system. By limiting both access to civil courts and the chances of success once in the courts, this funnel contributes significantly to systemic inequality regarding access to opportunity in American society. The rights revolution of the mid-20th century may have made progress toward widening the narrow civil justice funnel, but the subsequent judicial and legislative dismantling of that progress has led to stagnant numbers of cases brought to court. More Americans are now left with limited avenues to seek redress for civil wrongs perpetrated against them; for example, civil rights cases have remained relatively static since 1997 at around 80,000 annual charges, and while increasing slightly under Obama, have decreased most recently under Trump. [16] The United States government leaves most of its civil rights issues to private enforcement (going to court) rather than taking them into its own hands (through actions like Department of Justice investigations); with a funnel any narrower than it is currently, we run the risk of losing all accountability of powerful repeat players in the civil justice system, and individuals who have been wronged will have even less of an opportunity to have their grievances redressed.

NOTES:

[1] Baum, Lawrence. “American Courts: Process and Policy.” 7th ed., Wadsworth, 2013.

[2] Felstiner, William L.F. et al.“The Emergence and Transformation of Disputes: Naming, Blaming, Claiming” Law & Society Review, Vol. 15, No. 3/4, 1980-1981. https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3053505.pdf?refreqid=excelsior%3Aacc889b6bd58fb5e430bcbca5b39d056&ab_segments=&origin=

[3] United States Code, “Civil Rights Attorneys Fees Award Act of 1976,” 90 stat. 2641, 94th Cong. (1976)

[4] Dodd, Lynda G. “The Rights Revolution in the Age of Obama and Ferguson: Policing, the Rule of Law, and the Elusive Quest for Accountability.” Perspectives on Politics, Vol. 13, No. 3, September 2015, pp. 657-679. American Political Science Association

https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/43867348.pdf?casa_token=98_ZZisyevQAAAAA:6N0BIecP7B_OL-wPJ8aS0FtyZOyYfyhaOa728PUvbDikBZ-jCeqv3Pa-M9ZvRTbW-p_rb-XCCvGIobZLaqp4iKUFtbWaVUz3-UHoMNSWpVJwZNTimGrs 

[5] Hubbard, F. Patrick. “The Nature and Impact of the Tort Reform Movement,” 35 Hofstra L. Rev. 437. 2006. 

https://law.hofstra.edu/pdf/academics/journals/lawreview/lrv_issues_v35n02_cc1.hubbard.final.pdf

[6] United States, Supreme Court. Will v. Michigan Department of State Police. 15 June 1989. US Supreme Court Center, Justia,  https://supreme.justia.com/cases/federal/us/491/58/

[7] United States Code, “Civil Rights Act of 1871,” 42nd Cong. §1983 (1871)  

[8] United States, Supreme Court. Buckhannon Board & Care Home, Inc. v. West Virginia Department of Health and Human Resources. 29 May 2001. US Supreme Court Center, Justia, https://supreme.justia.com/cases/federal/us/532/598/

[9] Dodd, Lynda G. “The Rights Revolution in the Age of Obama and Ferguson: Policing, the Rule of Law, and the Elusive Quest for Accountability.” Perspectives on Politics, Vol. 13, No. 3, September 2015, pp. 657-679. American Political Science Association. https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/43867348.pdf?casa_token=98_ZZisyevQAAAAA:6N0BIecP7B_OL-wPJ8aS0FtyZOyYfyhaOa728PUvbDikBZ-jCeqv3Pa-M9ZvRTbW-p_rb-XCCvGIobZLaqp4iKUFtbWaVUz3-UHoMNSWpVJwZNTimGrs 

[10] United States Code, “Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995,” H.R. 1058, 104th Cong. (1995) 

[11] United States  Code, “Class Action Fairness Act of 2005,” S. 5, 109th Cong. (2005)

[12] Staszak, Sarah. “Institutions, Rulemaking, and the Politics of Judicial Retrenchment.” Studies in American Political Development, Vol. 24, No. 2, 2010, pp. 168–189. https://www-cambridge-org.turing.library.northwestern.edu/core/services/aop-cambridge-core/content/view/55E9D8D31338E77327B2B77E34207BAC/S0898588X10000040a.pdf/institutions-rulemaking-and-the-politics-of-judicial-retrenchment.pdf

[13] Grossman, Joel B. et al. “Do the "Haves" Still Come Out Ahead?” Law & Society Review, Vol. 33, No. 4, 1999, pp. 803-810.https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3115150.pdf?refreqid=excelsior%3A5ce0fddeca980cfc11c5ed47351f0639&ab_segments=&origin=

[14] Baum, Lawrence. “American Courts: Process and Policy.” 7th ed., Wadsworth, 2013.

[15] Merry, Sally Engle. “Getting Justice and Getting Even: Legal Consciousness Among Working-Class Americans.” University of Chicago Press. 1990. https://northwestern.ares.atlas-sys.com/areslms//ares.dll?Action=10&Type=10&Value=179073&SessionID=J123213308

[16] U.S. Equal Employment Opportunity Commission. EEOC. https://www.eeoc.gov/data/charge-statistics-charges-filed-eeoc-fy-1997-through-fy-2021

BIBLIOGRAPHY:

Baum, Lawrence. “American Courts: Process and Policy.” 7th ed., Wadsworth, 2013.

Felstiner, William L.F. et al.“The Emergence and Transformation of Disputes: Naming, Blaming, Claiming” Law & Society Review, Vol. 15, No. 3/4, 1980-1981. https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3053505.pdf?refreqid=excelsior%3Aacc889b6bd58fb5e430bcbca5b39d056&ab_segments=&origin=

United States Code, “Civil Rights Attorneys Fees Award Act of 1976,” 90 stat. 2641, 94th Cong. (1976)

Dodd, Lynda G. “The Rights Revolution in the Age of Obama and Ferguson: Policing, the Rule of Law, and the Elusive Quest for Accountability.” Perspectives on Politics, Vol. 13, No. 3, September 2015, pp. 657-679. American Political Science Association

https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/43867348.pdf?casa_token=98_ZZisyevQAAAAA:6N0BIecP7B_OL-wPJ8aS0FtyZOyYfyhaOa728PUvbDikBZ-jCeqv3Pa-M9ZvRTbW-p_rb-XCCvGIobZLaqp4iKUFtbWaVUz3-UHoMNSWpVJwZNTimGrs 

Hubbard, F. Patrick. “The Nature and Impact of the Tort Reform Movement,” 35 Hofstra L. Rev. 437. 2006. 

https://law.hofstra.edu/pdf/academics/journals/lawreview/lrv_issues_v35n02_cc1.hubbard.final.pdf

United States, Supreme Court. Will v. Michigan Department of State Police. 15 June 1989. US Supreme Court Center, Justia,  https://supreme.justia.com/cases/federal/us/491/58/

United States Code, “Civil Rights Act of 1871,” 42nd Cong. §1983 (1871)  

United States, Supreme Court. Buckhannon Board & Care Home, Inc. v. West Virginia Department of Health and Human Resources. 29 May 2001. US Supreme Court Center, Justia, https://supreme.justia.com/cases/federal/us/532/598/

Dodd, Lynda G. “The Rights Revolution in the Age of Obama and Ferguson: Policing, the Rule of Law, and the Elusive Quest for Accountability.” Perspectives on Politics, Vol. 13, No. 3, September 2015, pp. 657-679. American Political Science Association. https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/43867348.pdf?casa_token=98_ZZisyevQAAAAA:6N0BIecP7B_OL-wPJ8aS0FtyZOyYfyhaOa728PUvbDikBZ-jCeqv3Pa-M9ZvRTbW-p_rb-XCCvGIobZLaqp4iKUFtbWaVUz3-UHoMNSWpVJwZNTimGrs 

United States Code, “Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995,” H.R. 1058, 104th Cong. (1995) 

United States  Code, “Class Action Fairness Act of 2005,” S. 5, 109th Cong. (2005)

Staszak, Sarah. “Institutions, Rulemaking, and the Politics of Judicial Retrenchment.” Studies in American Political Development, Vol. 24, No. 2, 2010, pp. 168–189. https://www-cambridge-org.turing.library.northwestern.edu/core/services/aop-cambridge-core/content/view/55E9D8D31338E77327B2B77E34207BAC/S0898588X10000040a.pdf/institutions-rulemaking-and-the-politics-of-judicial-retrenchment.pdf

Grossman, Joel B. et al. “Do the "Haves" Still Come Out Ahead?” Law & Society Review, Vol. 33, No. 4, 1999, pp. 803-810.https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3115150.pdf?refreqid=excelsior%3A5ce0fddeca980cfc11c5ed47351f0639&ab_segments=&origin=

Baum, Lawrence. “American Courts: Process and Policy.” 7th ed., Wadsworth, 2013.

Merry, Sally Engle. “Getting Justice and Getting Even: Legal Consciousness Among Working-Class Americans.” University of Chicago Press. 1990. https://northwestern.ares.atlas-sys.com/areslms//ares.dll?Action=10&Type=10&Value=179073&SessionID=J123213308

U.S. Equal Employment Opportunity Commission. EEOC. https://www.eeoc.gov/data/charge-statistics-charges-filed-eeoc-fy-1997-through-fy-2021

Honor Among Thieves? A Debate on the Legality of the Taliban

By: Clary Doyle

Edited By: Alex brunet and emily yang

In a controversial move, President Joe Biden expedited the withdrawal of U.S. forces from Afghanistan in September of 2021. Within a month, the Taliban had captured the capital in Kabul and entered the presidential palace, effectively instating themselves as the new government of Afghanistan.[1] Although it has been more than a year since the Taliban has regained power in the region, no country has recognized their government as official.[2] Nonetheless, the group has moved forward establishing Shariah law and appointing officials to their thirty-member cabinet which works in conjunction with Mohammad Hassan Akhund—the acting prime minister.[3] Many in Afghanistan have spoken out against the abuses of the new regime which does not allow women to attend school or leave their houses without being completely covered. Thus, while countries around the world struggle to decide whether to recognize the authority of the Taliban in Afghanistan, its citizens grapple with its legal authority. The takeover by the Taliban in Afghanistan raises questions about what constitutes legitimate authority of law and the consequences of different approaches to this quandary. Instead of considering international recognition of Taliban Sharia law, this essay examines whether it can be considered legal according to natural law theorist, Lon Fuller, and positivist law theorist, H.L.A. Hart. I will assert that the Taliban’s institution of Sharia law is legally invalid according to Fuller and valid according to Hart. These determinations have significant consequences because they ascertain whether citizens under this system have the obligation to follow the law. Moreover, I argue in favor of using Hart’s positivist approach to law because it proves the most reasonable and productive theory when considering how to overcome legal systems that do not have popular support. 

 Let us first examine the legality of the Taliban according to natural law. This theory asseverates that law is valid when based on moral facts of what the law ought to be.[4] In its oldest form, Thomas Aquinas advocated for this approach by arguing that the only legitimate form of law was that which came from God.[5] However, as this theory has evolved, it has veered from pertaining to a “brooding omnipresence in the skies” to something “entirely terrestrial in origin and in application.”[6] To Fuller, natural law is neither a divine order nor “a series of sporadic and patternless exercises of state power.” [7] Instead, law is “the enterprise of subjecting human conduct to the governance of rules.”[8] In order for law to be legitimate, it must have an inner morality defined by what law should not be, rather than what it should. Fuller defined eight ways through which law can fail: no law is established, law is not publicized, there is abuse of retroactive legislation, laws are not understandable, laws are contradictory, law requires conduct beyond the powers of the affected party, law changes so frequently that people cannot orient their behavior by it, and, finally, there is a failure of congruence between the rules as announced and their application.[9] A deficiency in any of these ways “results in something that is not properly called a legal system at all.”[10] 

When applying Fuller’s legitimacy test to the Taliban’s system of law, I rely on a combination of data surrounding their rule of the region between 1996 and 2001 and the little that is known about their current administration. With this information, the Taliban’s legal system proves to be invalid according to Fuller. The Taliban, by establishing Sharia law—Islamic law—has installed a system of law. However, Fuller’s definition further requires that law be made available to the affected party and understandable. Although the Taliban’s laws prohibiting women from going to school and leaving their homes without a male escort are frequently publicized among foreign countries, non-religious laws—such as those about probate and contracts—are recondite. Mahmood Mahroon, a professor at Kabul University, says, “There is neither an official constitution nor laws, so they won’t be able to run their justice system.”[11] Additionally, the network of the Taliban judiciary relies on interpretations of Sharia law which is not always cut and dry. Fiqh—the human understanding of Sharia through which it is applied— is controversial and highly debated amongst Islamic scholars.[12] Finally, Haroun Rahimi, assistant professor of law at the American University of Afghanistan, says, “The Taliban has yet to either confirm that the existing laws of the country will remain in force or to lay out a new legal system.”[13] Without clear knowledge of the laws in place, citizens in Afghanistan have no way of feeling safe from the retaliation of state violence for unknowingly violating the law.  

Fuller’s definition of legality also stipulates that law cannot be contradictory nor can the rules as announced differ from their administration.[14] According to Bergen’s research, the law of the Taliban fails in these regards as well. The makeup of the chain of command and Taliban judiciary in the early 2000s caused frequent legal contradiction and confusion. Bergen states, “many decisions [were] made through…informal channels, bypassing the formal structures.”[15] This is in part due to the dubbed “shadow government” that the Taliban developed alongside the existing Afghanistan government structures through which Taliban officials had behind the scenes roles in the governance of “every province in the country.”[16] Finally, the administration of law often occurs without due process through Sharia law. For example, “During the 1990s, the Taliban imposed their legal system through the Department for the Promotion of Virtue and Prevention of Vice, which operated a religious police force. The police were empowered to beat and jail offenders, often without any proof or any trial process.”[17] By having a police force that can practically create new law through their arbitrary use of force in the community, the actual administration of law cannot be in accordance with the written law.  Therefore, it can reasonably be concluded that the administration of the Taliban fails Fuller’s legitimacy test, making it not a system of law at all.

Having established this, let us now examine the legitimacy of the Taliban according to leading legal positivist, H.L.A. Hart. To begin, Fuller criticized theories of legal positivism because they ask of law “not what it is or does, but from whence it comes. Its basic concern is with the question, 'Who can make the law?’”[18] However, Hart rejected the sub-theory of positivist law that postulates that somewhere within the legal system there must be a sovereign legislative power which is legally unlimited. [19] Instead, the foundations of a legal system “consist of a situation in which the majority of a social group habitually obey the orders backed by threats of the sovereign person or persons, who themselves habitually obey no one.”[20] Hart’s recipe of legality is based on the “rule of recognition” which is the cornerstone of a legitimate legal system. It informs the obligation citizens feel to follow the law, and it is the rule through which every other law in the system gets its validity. Hart establishes two conditions which must be met in order for there to be a rule of recognition. First, most private citizens need to obey the law “‘for [their] part only’ and from any motive whatever.”[21] Second, officials of the system “must regard these [laws] as common standard of official behavior and appraise critically their own and each other’s deviations as lapses.”[22] If both of these conditions are satisfied, the rule of recognition is realized and a system is legal according to Hart. 

 The system of law of the Taliban fulfills both conditions of Hart’s rule of recognition, and, therefore, is legal. First, the majority of citizens in Afghanistan abide by the law laid down by the Taliban. Some, of course, follow it due to an acceptance of Sharia law; others do so out of fear of punishment.[23] But their motives for compliance do not matter in Hart’s interoperation of law. What matters is their obedience. 

The mindset of officials within the system also plays a role in achieving legality. Hart expounds that in order for the second criteria for the rule of recognition to be met, officials in the system must have an internal point of view accepting the law. Hart states that when it comes to the officials, “the simple notion of general obedience, which was adequate to characterize the indispensable minimum in the case of ordinary citizens, is inadequate.”[24] Instead, they themselves must follow the law, and if they see someone disobeying the law, they must look down on that behavior.[25] These conditions are met by Taliban officials. Many of these current leaders grew up under a corrupt and unstable government. The state-run educational system was flawed and decrepit, so many young boys were sent to madrassas— schools that offered “a free education, food, shelter and military training.”[26] This system indoctrinated the ideology of the Taliban into young men who now support and run the Taliban. Therefore, it is not difficult to determine that many of the Taliban’s leaders either support Sharia law because of religious affinity or because they see it as a better alternative to the venality and volatility of the previous government. In Bergen’s words, “the Taliban in the province—from the senior leadership to the rank and file—fell into two categories: they either accepted the legitimacy of the new government or they rejected it but did not feel that fighting against it was appropriate or possible.”[27] Such motives support the internal point of view necessary for a rule of recognition. 

These analyses can lead us to conclusions about the Taliban and, more broadly, about natural law and positivist law theories. To begin, according to Fuller, the Taliban’s system of law cannot be considered valid. Therefore, the citizens of Afghanistan are under no moral obligation to follow the law. On the other hand, when applying the positivist approach of Hart, the Taliban’s legal system appears legitimate. Using these conclusions alone, it may seem intuitive to support Fuller’s system over Hart’s because his eight criteria of legality seemingly condemn the rampant human rights abuses of the Taliban such as the flagrant discrimination against women. However, such a conjecture, I argue, is premature. I believe Hart’s view of legal legitimacy prevails over Fuller’s in terms of its rationality and its productivity when considering legal systems that violate human rights. 

 My arguments in settling the debate between Fuller and Hart do not rest on their claims that one system lends itself to less iniquity than the other. In fact, in my mind, this postulate is incorrect. Both Fuller and Hart’s theories allow for legitimate legal systems which endorse the violation of human rights. For example, it is perfectly reasonable that a system of law could abide by Fuller’s eight requirements for legality and still deny women’s rights. So long as the citizens are aware of these regulations over women and consistent in their application, the system could be deemed valid. Hart’s positivist approach, likewise, lends itself to ‘moral iniquity.’ This needs less explanation, considering the validation it gives the Taliban’s law. Hart admits this, himself, through writing, “In a more complex system, only officials might accept and use the system’s criteria of legal validity. The society in which this was so might be deplorably sheeplike; the sheep might end up in the slaughter-house. But there is little reason for thinking that it could not exist or for denying it the title of a legal system.”[28] Thus, when both systems give way to some sort of wickedness, it is senseless to debate which is superior in these regards.  Seeing as though the moral superiority argument does not tip the scale in the direction of either argument, I resolve the standstill by first investigating which theory is more rational. Because Fuller focuses his theory on what legality is not, he never gives an explanation for what practical legality is. Defining a term by a foil creates gaps in an argument. For example, it would be misleading to define war as an absence of peace because it discounts the situations in which there is neither peace nor war, like in moments during the Cold War. Likewise, such a postulate when thinking about legality is irrational because Hart’s criteria for what law is not does not make room for many interpretations of what can actually be considered law. Fuller himself admits that a system of law that achieves perfect legality according to his eight criteria does not exist.[29] The implications of this are severe. For example, Fuller’s idea of legality affirms that citizens of Afghanistan are under no moral obligation to follow the law. However, using those same criteria, there are many countries around the world in which citizens would also have no duty to abide by the law because legal systems are often confusing, contradictory, and what occurs in practice differs from what should ostensibly happen. For example, considering the contradictions in policing policy and policing practice in the United States alone, it would be difficult to argue that citizens of the U.S. are under any moral obligation to follow the law.  Another issue that Fuller’s definition of legality runs into is the problem of multiple legal systems. Because law exists in Fuller’s theory solely if it follows his eight criteria, it is possible that multiple legal systems could be established over the same population. This begs the question of which legal system citizens should abide by. For example, in Venezuela, two different men have claimed the title of president in recent years.[30] If Nicolas Maduro and Juan Guaido formed two separate legal systems that mostly agreed with Fuller’s criteria of legality, Fuller’s theory would have no rational solution as to which takes precedence over the other.  Moreover, Hart criticizes Fuller, saying, “laws, however morally iniquitous, would still be laws.”[31] That is to say, no matter one’s opinion of the legal legitimacy of a system, that would not stop his/her/their persecution under the Taliban should they violate Sharia law.  Hart’s theory of legality does not run into these same problems. By giving a clear definition of what constitutes legality, there is no room for ambiguity. Hart’s theory accounts for the reason why laws exist in imperfect governments such as the United States because he says law does not need to be perfect to be valid; it just needs to be thought of as law. Additionally, Hart’s legality makes sense of a situation in which multiple systems of law claim legal authority. Because his idea of validity only occurs if a majority of people recognize the law, the true legal system would be the one which most people follow. This offers a clear solution to a problem of opposing legal systems. Finally, his system is more rational because it explains the use of punishment and imprisonment for lawbreaking where Fuller’s criteria theory creates a plethora of instances of what would be random state violence because no law technically exists.  The second way positivism prevails over Fuller’s natural law approach is through its productivity for those living under the law—the citizens of Afghanistan—who, according to a 2019 survey, overwhelmingly said it is important to protect women’s rights, freedom of speech, and the current constitution.[32] While Fuller’s measures of legal legitimacy encourage governments to be more transparent, they do not necessarily incentivize governments to have the support of the people being governed. For example, there is evidence that the Taliban, “given the desire to be recognized as a legitimate political movement…may seek to formalize and adapt their practices so that they are more methodical and predictable.”[33] It goes without saying that even if the Taliban reached a perfect system of pellucid law and rulings, women—roughly fifty percent of the population—would indubitably be legally discriminated against.  Furthermore, Fuller’s recipe for legality gives citizens no insight into how to overcome a legal system that the population is not satisfied with. A system of law deemed valid in Fuller’s terms could only lose its legitimacy if it succumbed to corruption and confusion. For instance, suppose Sharia law in Afghanistan abided by Fuller’s eight criteria of legality, and the people still opposed it. For it to cease to be legitimate, the system would need to significantly deteriorate in one of Fuller’s descriptions of failure. However, no citizen—no matter how unhappy they are —would reasonably advocate for this solely to delegitimize the system of law. Making an already distasteful system worse through confusion or retroactive legislation would only exacerbate the citizens’ grievances. 

On the other hand, Hart’s theory of legality encourages legal systems to seek the approval of its officials and constituents. His reliance on social facts in this manner does not have a perfect track record. Many times throughout history, people have accepted and advocated for egregious legal systems embedded with antisemitism, racism, or sexism. Nonetheless, social facts are subject to revision, and they have changed. For example, during the Civil Rights Movement in the United States, many people exercised civil disobedience by not acknowledging segregation laws in different public spaces. Without the recognition of the law by the people, law loses its validity. In response to such protests, the United States Congress revised the laws in favor of these protesters. Considering that support for the Taliban in Afghanistan has decreased in recent years, such a scenario could potentially be mimicked.[34] Should disapprobation build enough to threaten the influence of the Taliban, the Taliban might reasonably respond by trying to make their laws more acceptable in the eyes of the public. Therefore, while Fuller’s definition of legality can be achieved by striving toward his standards of legal clarity, Hart’s legality can be reached through the thoughts and actions of the people. 

Fuller would likely respond to this argument saying that if a government was attempting to achieve legality in Hart’s view they could take the avenue of making their laws more pleasing to the people, but an equally viable path would be to intimidate and coerce the people into following the laws. However, Hart states that the subjective excellence of the rule of recognition is a value statement—something that does not concern legal positivists. Moreover, whether a rule is deemed legal according to Hart does not make it morally binding or permanent; it is solely concerned with legality in action. 

Additionally, because the rule of recognition necessitates the approval of officials, this, in theory, leads to less corruption as it provides a type of check on the rule maker/s. Fuller could rebut this using the Taliban as an example of a legal system in which most officials in the government are minions within the Taliban’s chain of command. This cabinet, then, is unequivocally corrupt. Nonetheless, the internal point of view is only half of what’s necessary for Hart’s legal legitimacy. This completely discounts his requisite that the people recognize the laws laid down. If, in fact, the citizens of Afghanistan do not recognize Sharia law, they have the power to effectively change the rule of recognition. 

The malleable nature of the rule of recognition has profound political consequences when applied to the Taliban, and it is on this point where Fuller’s critiques of Hart’s theory 

demonstrate its genius. Fuller contends “to speak of one rule of recognition as pointing to something constantly changing” is illogical.[35] Yet, because the rule of recognition presupposes the recognition of the people, it allows legal legitimacy to bend and adapt to their will. Therefore, the rule of recognition is an argument for democracy even in systems where democracy does not exist. 

Furthermore, Hart’s theory provides citizens with the key to take down an unfavorable system of law. It implies that if enough people disobey the law—through negligence, protest, strike, or revolt—a system is no longer legally legitimate. Real political action, of course, requires a great deal of energy, time, and risk. Nonetheless, it is the flexibility of the rule of recognition that has been the basis of revolutions employing civil disobedience, and it will continue to be the bastion of such movements in the future. Consequently, the citizens and officials of Afghanistan have the power to rid themselves of a legal system they do not support by refusing to acknowledge it as law.  In conclusion, according to Lon Fuller, the Taliban does not have a legitimate legal system because it malfunctions in the eight ways he says a law can fail. Sharia law instituted by the Taliban is replete with contraction, confusion, and there are gaps between what is said and what is done. Therefore, the people of Afghanistan are under no moral obligation to follow the law. In contrast, Sharia law is legal according to positivist thinker H.L.A Hart. Because the leaders within the Taliban have an internal point of view towards Sharia law and the citizens of Afghanistan mostly comply with the law, the minimum requirements for the rule of recognition are met. Hart’s stance is a controversial one; even so, I argue it is the more rational and productive way to approach the rule of law. While Fuller’s theory calls for pellucid policies that appeal to anyone critical of Kafkaesque governance, it is an aspirational outlook that is hardly realized in any government around the world, least of all the United States. Therefore, it justifies law-breaking almost everywhere. In addition, it does not account for situations of competing legal systems and creates instances in which a state power would be imposing punishments for laws that, according to Fuller, are not really laws. Furthermore, Fuller’s legality can morally bind citizens to follow a system of law which violates human rights. In the case of the Taliban, should their administration organize more effectively, it could make a misogynistic legal system a morally acceptable one. For these reasons and more, Hart’s positivist approach to law is superior. His theory offers a practical definition of legality that can make sense of why imperfect legal systems have power, issues of competing legal systems, and the use of state force for lawbreaking. Although it can establish systems of government that violate human rights, it does not morally bind citizens to follow these laws. Most importantly, Hart’s recipe provides citizens who are discontent with the legal system a means by which to change it. Because the rule of recognition relies on the obedience of a majority of the constituency, theoretically, the people have the power to delegitimize the law. That said, the people of Afghanistan are not bound to repressive Taliban rule. Organized revolt and revolution are possible avenues for the dissolution of the current rule of recognition from which the Taliban derives its legal power. By no means do I believe these arguments will settle the centuries-long debate between natural law and positivist law, but I do feel that they hold political consequence in Afghanistan. Moreover, this interpretation empowers people everywhere who are unhappy with their legal systems by reminding them of their power to play a role in the law.

NOTES:

1. “War in Afghanistan.” Global Conflict Tracker, https://cfr.org/global-conflict-tracker/n conflict/war-afghanistan. Accessed 9 Mar. 2022. 

2. Saul, Ben. “‘Recognition’ and the Taliban’s International Legal Status.” ICCT, 15 Dec. 2021, https://icct.nl/publication/recognition-talibans-international-legal-status/

3. How Will the Taliban Govern Afghanistan and Who Is Mullah Mohammad Hassan, the New Prime Minister? - Vox. https://www.vox.com/22665508/taliban-afghanistan-prime minister-supreme-leader-hassan-haibatullah. Accessed 5 Mar. 2022. 

4. Hart, H. L. A. The Concept of Law. Clarendon Press, 1961. 

5. Murphy, Mark, "The Natural Law Tradition in Ethics", The Stanford Encyclopedia of Philosophy (Summer 2019 Edition), Edward N. Zalta (ed.), URL = <https:// plato.stanford.edu/archives/sum2019/entries/natural-law-ethics/>. 

6. Fuller, Lon L. The Morality of Law. Yale University Press, 1969. 

7. Ibid. 

8. Ibid. 

9. Ibid. 

10. Ibid. 

11. Glinski, Stefanie. “12 Million Angry Men.” Foreign Policy, https://foreignpolicy.com/ 2021/10/28/afghanistan-taliban-justice-sharia/. Accessed 10 Mar. 2022. 

12. Rahimi, Haroun. The Taliban, the Afghan State and the Rule of Law. https:// www.aljazeera.com/opinions/2021/9/1/the-taliban-the-state-and-the-rule-of-law. Accessed 10 Mar. 2022. 

13. Ibid. 

14. Fuller, Lon L. The Morality of Law. Yale University Press, 1969. 

15. Bergen, Peter L., and Katherine Tiedemann. Talibanistan : Negotiating the Borders Between Terror, Politics, and Religion. Edited by Peter L. Bergen and Katherine Tiedemann, Oxford University Press, 2013. 

16. Ibid. 

17. Forbes, Jami. “The Significance of Taliban Shari`a Courts in Afghanistan.” Combating Terrorism Center, https://ctc.westpoint.edu/the-significance-of-taliban-sharia-courts-in afghanistan/. Accessed 5 Mar. 2022. 

18. Strahan, Thomas W. The Natural Law Philosophy of Lon L. Fuller in Contrast to Roe v. Wade and Its Progeny. https://www.lifeissues.net/writers/air/air_vol15no4_2000.html. Accessed 15 Mar. 2022. 

19. Hart, H. L. A. The Concept of Law. Clarendon Press, 1961. 

20. Ibid. 

21. Ibid. 

22. Ibid. 

23. Bergen, Peter L., and Katherine Tiedemann. Talibanistan : Negotiating the Borders Between Terror, Politics, and Religion. Edited by Peter L. Bergen and Katherine Tiedemann, Oxford University Press, 2013. 

24. Hart, H. L. A. The Concept of Law. Clarendon Press, 1961. 

25. Ibid. 

26. Sultana, Aneela. “Taliban or Terrorist? Some Reflections on the Taliban’s Ideology.” Politics and Religion Journal, vol. 3, no. 1, 1, 2009, pp. 7–24. www.politicsandreligionjournal.com, https://doi.org/10.54561/prj0301007s

27. Bergen, Peter L., and Katherine Tiedemann. Talibanistan : Negotiating the Borders Between Terror, Politics, and Religion. Edited by Peter L. Bergen and Katherine Tiedemann, Oxford University Press, 2013. 

28. Hart, H. L. A. The Concept of Law. Clarendon Press, 1961. 

29. Fuller, Lon L. The Morality of Law. Yale University Press, 1969. 

30. Hellinger, Daniel. “Venezuela Crisis Explained: A Tale of Two Presidents.” The Conversation, http://theconversation.com/venezuela-crisis-explained-a-tale-of-two presidents-111198. Accessed 17 Mar. 2022. 

31. Hart, H. L. A. “Positivism and the Separation of Law and Morals.” Harvard Law Review, vol. 71, no. 4, 1958, pp. 593–629. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1338225. 32. How Will the Taliban Govern Afghanistan and Who Is Mullah Mohammad Hassan, the New Prime Minister? - Vox. https://www.vox.com/22665508/taliban-afghanistan-prime minister-supreme-leader-hassan-haibatullah. Accessed 5 Mar. 2022. 

33. Forbes, Jami. “The Significance of Taliban Shari`a Courts in Afghanistan.” Combating Terrorism Center, https://ctc.westpoint.edu/the-significance-of-taliban-sharia-courts-in afghanistan/. Accessed 5 Mar. 2022. 

34. How Will the Taliban Govern Afghanistan and Who Is Mullah Mohammad Hassan, the New Prime Minister? - Vox. https://www.vox.com/22665508/taliban-afghanistan-prime minister-supreme-leader-hassan-haibatullah. Accessed 5 Mar. 2022. 

35. Fuller, Lon L. The Morality of Law. Yale University Press, 1969.

BIBLIOGRAPHY:

Baczko, Adam. “Legal Rule and Tribal Politics: The US Army and the Taliban in Afghanistan (2001–13).” Development and Change, vol. 47, no. 6, 2016, pp. 1412–33. Wiley Online Library, https://doi.org/10.1111/dech.12276

Bergen, Peter L., and Katherine Tiedemann. Talibanistan: Negotiating the Borders Between Terror, Politics, and Religion. Edited by Peter L. Bergen and Katherine Tiedemann, Oxford University Press, 2013. 

Forbes, Jami. “The Significance of Taliban Shari`a Courts in Afghanistan.” Combating Terrorism Center, https://ctc.westpoint.edu/the-significance-of-taliban-sharia-courts-in-afghanistan/. Accessed 5 Mar. 2022. 

Fuller, Lon L. The Morality of Law. p. 273. 

Glinski, Stefanie. “12 Million Angry Men.” Foreign Policy, https://foreignpolicy.com/ 2021/10/28/afghanistan-taliban-justice-sharia/. Accessed 10 Mar. 2022. 

Goodson, Larry P. Afghanistan’s Endless War : State Failure, Regional Politics, and the Rise of  the Taliban. University of Washington Press, 2001. 

Hart and Fuller Debate on Law and Morality. https://www.lawteacher.net/free-law-essays/ judicial-law/hart-and-fuller-debate-9262.php. Accessed 7 Mar. 2022. 

Hart, H. L. A. “Positivism and the Separation of Law and Morals.” Harvard Law Review, vol. 71, no. 4, 1958, pp. 593–629. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.2307/1338225

Hart, H. L. A. The Concept of Law. Clarendon Press, 1961. 

Hellinger, Daniel. “Venezuela Crisis Explained: A Tale of Two Presidents.” The Conversation, http://theconversation.com/venezuela-crisis-explained-a-tale-of-two-presidents-111198. Accessed 17 Mar. 2022. 

“How Will the Taliban Govern Afghanistan and Who Is Mullah Mohammad Hassan, the New Prime Minister?” - Vox. https://www.vox.com/22665508/taliban-afghanistan-prime minister-supreme-leader-hassan-haibatullah. Accessed 5 Mar. 2022.

Murphy, Mark, "The Natural Law Tradition in Ethics", The Stanford Encyclopedia of Philosophy (Summer 2019 Edition), Edward N. Zalta (ed.), URL = <https://plato.stanford.edu/ archives/sum2019/entries/natural-law-ethics/>. 

Öztürk, Selim. “The Taliban Regime in Afghanistan: En Route to International Recognition?” Middle East Policy, vol. 26, no. 4, Winter 2019, pp. 102–12. EBSCOhost, https://doi.org/ 10.1111/mepo.12460. 

Rahimi, Haroun. The Taliban, the Afghan State and the Rule of Law. https://www.aljazeera.com/ opinions/2021/9/1/the-taliban-the-state-and-the-rule-of-law. Accessed 10 Mar. 2022. Saul, Ben. “‘Recognition’ and the Taliban’s International Legal Status.” ICCT, 15 Dec. 2021, https://icct.nl/publication/recognition-talibans-international-legal-status/

Shahrani, Nazif M. “The Impact of the 2014 U.S.-NATO Withdrawal on the Internal Politics of Afghanistan: Karzai-Style Thugocracy or Taliban Theocracy?” Asian Survey, vol. 55, no. 2, 2015, pp. 273–98. JSTOR, https://doi.org/10.1525/as.2015.55.2.273

Shapiro, Scott J. “What Is the Internal Point of View?” SSRN Electronic Journal, 2006. DOI.org (Crossref), https://doi.org/10.2139/ssrn.937337. REVIEW, vol. 14, p. 35. 

Strahan, Thomas W. The Natural Law Philosophy of Lon L. Fuller in Contrast to Roe v. Wade and Its Progeny. https://www.lifeissues.net/writers/air/air_vol15no4_2000.html. Accessed 15 Mar. 2022. 

Stumpf, Samuel E. “Austin’s Theory of the Separation of Law and Morals.” VANDERBILT LAW Sultana, Aneela. “TALIBAN OR TERRORIST? SOME REFLECTIONS ON TALIBAN’S IDEOLOGY.” Politics and Religion Journal, vol. 3, no. 1, 1, 2009, pp. 7–24. www.politicsandreligionjournal.com, https://doi.org/10.54561/prj0301007s. “The Significance of Taliban Shari`a Courts in Afghanistan.” Combating Terrorism Center at West Point, 23 May 2013, https://ctc.westpoint.edu/the-significance-of-taliban-sharia courts-in-afghanistan/.

“War in Afghanistan.” Global Conflict Tracker, https://cfr.org/global-conflict-tracker/conflict/ war-afghanistan. Accessed 9 Mar. 2022. 

“What Is the Taliban?” Council on Foreign Relations, https://www.cfr.org/backgrounder/taliban afghanistan. Accessed 9 Mar. 2022.

What is Fair in Fair Use?

By: Noah Coyle

Edited By: Maayan Abouzaglo and Luke Vredenburg

On October 12, 2022, the Supreme Court heard arguments for Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.[1] The case concerns whether a series of artworks based on a photo taken more than four decades ago constitutes a copyright violation, and its outcome may stifle the creation of art that relies on references.[2] The case’s origins date back to 1981, when celebrity photographer Lynn Goldsmith took a photograph of the late musician Prince that she would later license to Vanity Fair in 1984.[3] The magazine was authorized to utilize the photograph for an artist reference, in which an artist derives an artwork from an image of reference; it then commissioned artist Andy Warhol to create a piece of pop art using Goldsmith’s photograph of Prince.[4] The result of the commission was a cropped and recolored version of Goldsmith’s photograph that was featured in a Vanity Fair profile.[5] Warhol then reused Goldsmith’s photograph for a Prince Series that comprised more than a dozen other artworks, which only came to Goldsmith’s attention after one of these artworks was featured in a 2016 Vanity Fair issue commemorating Prince’s death.[6] The copyright of the Prince Series is owned by the Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts (AWF) nonprofit; Goldsmith received no credit for the Prince Series artwork published in Vanity Fair.[7] In Goldsmith's view, the Prince Series — which utilized her original photograph without her permission — amounted to copyright infringement.

Goldsmith notified AWF of its potential violation of her copyright after she learned of the Prince Series, to which AWF responded by suing Goldsmith in an effort to establish that the Prince Series did not constitute a copyright violation.[8] Goldsmith countersued, and the case was brought to the U.S. District Court for the Southern District of New York, which ruled in favor of AWF in 2019.[9] Precedent set by the Supreme Court in 1994 from the ruling of Campbell v. Acuff-Rose Music, Inc. holds that a derivative artwork which “adds something new, with a further purpose or different character, altering the first with new expression, meaning or message” is not in violation of copyright; this standard is known as the fair use principle.[10] Judge John G. Koeltl, who presided over the case, wrote that the Prince Series is sufficiently transformative to meet the fair use principle, as it changes Prince as depicted in Goldsmith’s photograph “from a vulnerable, uncomfortable person to an iconic, larger-than-life figure.”[11][12] The case was appealed to the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Second Circuit, which unanimously reversed Judge Koeltl’s ruling.[13] Writing for the panel, Judge Gerard E. Lynch held that the Prince Series “retains the essential elements of the Goldsmith photograph without significantly adding to or altering those elements” and therefore constitutes copyright infringement.[14]

The case was then heard by the Supreme Court, which granted a writ of certiorari on March 28, 2022 [15]. AWF claimed that under Supreme Court precedent, the Prince Series meets the fair use principle due to its transformative quality, as the meaning of the artwork is distinct from Goldsmith’s photograph.[16] AWF further argued that a work with a distinct meaning necessarily has a distinct purpose as well, stressing the importance of the fair use principle as a means of protecting art from unfettered copyright laws.[17] Nevertheless, Goldsmith asserted that the Prince Series is not sufficiently transformative to fall under fair use as transformative artworks must have a purpose that is different from the material it is derived from in addition to presenting a new meaning.[18] Goldsmith maintained that the Prince Series lacks any purpose beyond that of her photograph and therefore is not protected under the fair use principle.[19] What is thus in question in Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith is the standard a derivative artwork must meet to be recognized as having a distinct purpose from the original piece.

If the Supreme Court is to side with Goldsmith and limit the fair use principle, an optimist may point to how the ruling would make life easier for lawyers and judges by making fair use – and therefore copyright law as a whole – less ambiguous. A pessimist, on the other hand, may worry that such a ruling for Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith would do to creative freedom what the ruling of Dobbs v. Jackson Women's Health Organization did to federal abortion rights. An illustrative example would be that of hip-hop. Hip-hop is contingent on fair use as hip-hop beats tend to incorporate samples of others’ music. In fact, the ruling of Campbell v. Acuff-Rose Music, Inc. affirmed the right of the hip-hop group 2 Live Crew to sample the Roy Orbison song “Pretty Woman” in one of its own works.[20] If the Supreme Court rules in favor of Goldsmith, sampling could very well become defunct; if a distinct meaning is not enough to signify a distinct purpose, how could one argue that any given song serves a different purpose than another? In addition to hip-hop, this conundrum applies to all other art forms that rely on artistic reference, from the pop art of Andy Warhol to internet memes. With a decision on Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith expected in May or June 2023, the parameters of artistic expression in the United States may tighten mere months from now.[21]

NOTES:

  1. “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith,” Oyez (Oyez.org, October 12, 2022), https://www.oyez.org/cases/2022/21-869#:~:text=Facts%20of%20the%20case&text=Warhol%20made%20some%20aesthetic%20changes,fair%20use%20as%20a%20defense.

  2. Oyez, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.”

  3. Leslie R. Irwin and Steven D. Mirsen, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith,” Legal Information Institute (Cornell Law School, October 6, 2022), https://www.law.cornell.edu/supct/cert/21-869.

  4. Irwin and Mirsen, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.”

  5. Adam Liptak, “Supreme Court to Hear Copyright Fight Over Andy Warhol's Images of Prince,” The New York Times (The New York Times, March 28, 2022), https://www.nytimes.com/2022/03/28/us/politics/supreme-court-andy-warhol-prince.html.

  6. Liptak, “Supreme Court to Hear Copyright Fight Over Andy Warhol's Images of Prince.”

  7. Irwin and Mirsen, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.”

  8. Irwin and Mirsen, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.”

  9. Irwin and Mirsen, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.”

  10. Liptak, “Supreme Court to Hear Copyright Fight Over Andy Warhol's Images of Prince.”

  11. Liptak, “Supreme Court to Hear Copyright Fight Over Andy Warhol's Images of Prince.”

  12. Liptak, “Supreme Court to Hear Copyright Fight Over Andy Warhol's Images of Prince.”

  13. Liptak, “Supreme Court to Hear Copyright Fight Over Andy Warhol's Images of Prince.”

  14. Liptak, “Supreme Court to Hear Copyright Fight Over Andy Warhol's Images of Prince.”

  15. Oyez, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.”

  16. Irwin and Mirsen, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.”

  17. Irwin and Mirsen, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.”

  18. Irwin and Mirsen, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.”

  19. Irwin and Mirsen, “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.”

  20. Campbell v. Acuff-Rose Music, Inc., 510 U.S. 569 (1994).

  21. Hannibal Travis, “The Future of Creative Freedom Is on the Line, Starring Andy Warhol, Prince and 2 Live Crew,” FIU News (Florida International University, October 26, 2022), https://news.fiu.edu/2022/the-future-of-creative-freedom-is-on-the-line,-starring-andy-warhol,-prince-and-2-live-crew.

BIBLIOGRAPHY:

“Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.” Oyez. Oyez.org, October 12, 2022. https://www.oyez.org/cases/2022/21-869#:~:text=Facts%20of%20the%20case&text=Warhol%20made%20some%20aesthetic%20changes,fair%20use%20as%20a%20defense. 

Campbell v. Acuff-Rose Music, Inc., 510 U.S. 569 (1994).

Irwin, Leslie R., and Steven D. Mirsen. “Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc. v. Goldsmith.” Legal Information Institute. Cornell Law School, October 6, 2022. https://www.law.cornell.edu/supct/cert/21-869. 

Liptak, Adam. “Supreme Court to Hear Copyright Fight Over Andy Warhol's Images of Prince.” The New York Times. The New York Times, March 28, 2022. https://www.nytimes.com/2022/03/28/us/politics/supreme-court-andy-warhol-prince.html

Travis, Hannibal. “The Future of Creative Freedom Is on the Line, Starring Andy Warhol, Prince and 2 Live Crew.” FIU News. Florida International University, October 26, 2022. https://news.fiu.edu/2022/the-future-of-creative-freedom-is-on-the-line,-starring-andy-warhol,-prince-and-2-live-crew.